700r4 corvette servo direction install#
Knowing more heat would be generated without the lockup and the smaller converter I also had them install a higher capacity trans pan and trans cooler as well. I had them build me the 10" non-lockup converter which they knew would be used more on the street then the strip. I had my trans built by a local race trans shop here on LI, Select Transmissions, and they gave me the option of a 12" lockup or 10" non lockup. There's a right way to do it and if done that way it won't do any damage. I think that's pretty much the answer right there. If you have the lockup available, "do not" disconnect this on purpose, as there are no "gains" from doing this.
700r4 corvette servo direction pro#
Pro Built Automatics: If you want to use a non-lockup torque converter, then you must remove the checkball capsule at the front of the input shaft, install the non-lockup valve in the front pump that re-routes the fluid to the torque converter in the opposite direction. There are still a few of my units out there with this setup. For many years (from 1994 to the early 2000's) I built many non-lockup units very successfully, using Continental 10" non-lockup torque converters, with stalls from 2,400 rpm - 3,000 rpm with no problems with heat, and I used modified 11" low stall non-lockup torque converters for applications where people did not want the lockup, but with a slight loss of gas mileage. If you want to use a non-lockup torque converter, then you must remove the checkball capsule at the front of the input shaft, install the non-lockup valve in the front pump that re-routes the fluid to the torque converter in the opposite direction. The amount of heat that will be produced from not locking up the torque converter clutch, will be affected by the same criteria as above, and the same for the amount of gas mileage loss. The amount of slip that will happen when not using lockup will depend on the rear end gear ratio, which torque converter you are using, and how you drive (the intent of the vehicle). there were several simular posts.but here is a couple of trans guys who states the same thing my trans guy told me.and the torque converter company told me. I have no other vehicle in use so, I depend on this vehicle and its 700r4.įrom another site. Just sharing what works for me- day in and day out. I realize you did not ask about towing with one but, showing what I am doing while not using a lock up and towing, shows you can easily do the same or less. That way, you do not have to think about hitting your toggle if you have to do a panic stop. So, if you could benefit from that '5th' gear, it is a simple wire and toggle as some have mentioned but, important to run that wire through a cruise control type brake light switch. I have run most versions including an early '86 version but, of course, the later ones with the aux valve body are better units.Īdding the lock up effectively gives you a 5th forward gear ( as far as the engine is concerned ). My trans rarely sees over 190 and normally runs 170 without a lock up and while towing. I run a good size cooler, a deep alum pan and a temp gauge. Now, I am not saying not to use the lock up, I am simply saying, you do not HAVE to. I live in Phoenix and tow a lot so, I would have as much heat issues as anyone and I go through a lot of mountain grades too. I am sure it may be a good idea but, know personally it is not required. Theses trans have held up wonderfully in a few of my cars, towing without using the lock up.īased on this, I cannot agree that you MUST use the lock up.
Just last month, I towed 4,000 miles with it and I do not use the lock up or any electronics at all.
All with a 700 in my GTO pulling a trailer with a car or a boat on it.įurther, the majority of these miles were towing. Another 750 miles towing this week and another planned 1,000+ trip towing next week. Have used them well over 150,000 miles just to give reference. I've been running 700s in a few cars now since the $4+ gas crisis in '08.
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